Rough Opening Calculator — Windows & Exterior Doors
Enter the window or door unit size and get the rough opening, header call, and the full king / jack / cripple stud takeoff in one pass — built on the clearance rules manufacturers actually measure against.
Call size — e.g. 36
Call size — e.g. 60 or 80
Door mode adds 2.5" height
Rough opening result
Recommended framing callRough opening W × H
37" × 60 1/2"
Header call
2× 2×8
Kings / Jacks per side
1 / 1
Cripples above / below
2 / 2
💡 Framing tip
Snap the king lines first, then the RO lines between them — you frame the kings from the wall layout, not from the window. The RO always centers between kings only when jacks are equal.
⚠️ Threshold warning
The 82.5" door height assumes a standard 3/4" threshold bed on 23/32" subfloor. Pan-flashed installs and 1-1/4" thresholds eat the extra height — add the difference to the RO, not the slab.
❌ Common error
Framing the RO from the "nominal" name (a 3050 window is 36×60 call, not 30×50) misplaces every jack. Measure the actual unit sheet before cutting headers.
Standard Window Rough Opening Sizes (32×48, 36×60, 24×36 & More)
The chart below covers the window call sizes that make up most residential orders, framed with the default 1/2-inch per-side clearance. Every rough opening width in this rough opening calculator's chart lands on a header span you can build from conventional doubled dimensional lumber — no engineered beams until you pass the 8-foot line. When you frame an exterior wall, place these ROs so at least one full stud bay (16") remains between adjacent openings; two openings butted with only a king-to-king pair is the most common cause of a failed sheathing-edge inspection.
| Unit call size (in) | Rough opening W × H (in) | Header (1-story, roof-bearing) | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24 × 36 | 25" × 36 1/2" | 2× 2×6 | Bathroom or hallway single-hung |
| 28 × 54 | 29" × 54 1/2" | 2× 2×6 | Bedroom single-hung, 16" O.C. fit |
| 32 × 48 | 33" × 48 1/2" | 2× 2×6 | Standard bedroom slider or double-hung |
| 36 × 36 | 37" × 36 1/2" | 2× 2×6 | Kitchen square picture window |
| 36 × 60 | 37" × 60 1/2" | 2× 2×8 | Tall living-room double-hung |
| 36 × 48 | 37" × 48 1/2" | 2× 2×8 | Dining-room casement pair |
| 48 × 36 | 49" × 36 1/2" | 2× 2×8 | Wide basement/daylight window |
| 60 × 48 | 61" × 48 1/2" | 2× 2×10 | Picture window, load-bearing wall |
| 72 × 48 (double) | 73" × 48 1/2" | 2× 2×12 or LVL | Twin single-hungs mulled as one |
| 96 × 48 (triple) | 97" × 48 1/2" | LVL 9.5" min | Great-room window wall — engineered size |
💡 Where the numbers come from: a 32×48 unit frames at 33 × 48.5 — the 1/2-inch width gain splits 1/4 inch per side for shimming, and the 1/2-inch height gain all lives at the top because the sill sits directly on the rough sill. Field production framers frequently cut ROs 1 inch wider than this table (about a 3% material and air-sealing penalty) to absorb out-of-square units; the deviation is deliberate, but it must be a decision, not an accident.
Exterior Door Rough Opening Chart (36×80, 32×80, 30×80 & French Pairs)
Prehung exterior doors behave differently from windows because the jambs are structural: each side carries a 3/4-inch jamb plus 1/4-inch shim, and the height budget must include the threshold assembly. The standard conversion — slab width + 2 inches, slab height + 2.5 inches — holds for every entry configuration below. Note that this page intentionally does not cover garage vehicle doors; their RO and spring-load header math lives on the dedicated garage door rough opening calculator.
| Door unit (slab) | Rough opening W × H (in) | Header | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 30 × 80 | 32" × 82 1/2" | 2× 2×6 | Side entry, utility exterior door |
| 32 × 80 | 34" × 82 1/2" | 2× 2×6 | Secondary front or garage-to-house door |
| 36 × 80 | 38" × 82 1/2" | 2× 2×6 | Standard front entry door |
| 36 × 80 double French | 74" × 82 1/2" | 2× 2×10 | Patio French pair, 2× 36" slabs |
| 64 × 80 French pair | 66" × 82 1/2" | 2× 2×10 | Narrow patio double door |
| 72 × 80 patio slider | 74" × 82 1/2" | 2× 2×10 | Sliding patio assembly |
| 48 × 80 Dutch pair | 50" × 82 1/2" | 2× 2×8 | Farmhouse entry double slab |
| 36 × 96 tall entry | 38" × 98 1/2" | 2× 2×8 + taller studs | 9 ft ceiling modern entry |
⚠️ Outswing vs inswing
Both swing directions use the same RO width, but outswing doors with surface-mounted astragals can exceed the jamb face by 3/8 inch per side. Confirm the unit's "rough opening required" line — if the manufacturer prints a number, it overrides this table every time.
❌ Height error that fails final
Framing an 82.5" RO after the finish floor is installed leaves only a 1/4-inch reveal under the slab. Doors need 1/2 to 3/4 inch of air under the slab bottom — if flooring is already down, raise the RO height to 83" and shim the threshold, never the head.
How the RO Fits Into an Exterior Wall Frame
- 1.Layout the plates: snap king stud lines on the bottom plate at the unit sheet's RO width plus jacks, then mark jack lines inside. Every line below is cut from this layout — not from the unit box.
- 2.Cut and stand: kings full height, jacks to the underside of the header, cripples graded to the top plate. Assemble the header flat, then nail it up between the kings.
- 3.Square the bay: measure the RO diagonals — they must match within 1/8 inch or the unit will not shim plumb, and the inspector will catch it at the pre-drywall stage.
- 4.Cost cross-check: an RO costs 3.4× the lumber of a plain stud bay once header, jacks, and cripples are counted. The wall framing cost page prices that difference per linear foot.
Header Size by Rough Opening Width — 2×6 Double to LVL
Header depth scales with the load bridge, not the unit. The table assumes the worst common case for a wall: single story, roof-bearing, 28-foot tributary width, SPF #2. If the RO sits under a second floor or a roof valley, step one size deeper than shown or move to engineered LVL — and if the opening exceeds 8 feet, stop using charts entirely.
| RO width band | Exterior wall header | Interior partition | Jacks / side | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ≤ 36" (3 ft) | 2× 2×6 (11.25" deep wall: 2× 2×6 + ply) | 2× 2×4 | 1 | Window and standard 36" entry door |
| 37"– 48" (4 ft) | 2× 2×8 | 2× 2×6 | 1 | Picture windows, 48" patio doors |
| 49"– 66" (5.5 ft) | 2× 2×10 | 2× 2×8 | 1 | Double windows, 5 ft sliders |
| 67"– 78" (6.5 ft) | 2× 2×12 | 2× 2×10 | 2 | French pairs up to 72", wide picture |
| 79"– 96" (8 ft) | 3× 2×12 or LVL 9.5" | LVL engineered | 2 | Max conventional lumber — verify loads |
| > 96" | LVL / PSL — engineeredEngineered | LVL / steel — engineered | 3 | Never guess: beam sizing is an engineer's call |
❌ The deviation that breaks ceilings: the single most expensive RO mistake is treating a header chart as load-independent. A 72" French door pair under a clear-span truss roof passes at 2× 2×12; the same opening under a valley rafter concentrate carries roughly 2.6× the load and needs LVL. Before reusing any header call, trace what actually lands on it — the 2×12 span and header page shows the span-per-depth logic for the jump cases.
King Stud, Jack Stud & Cripple Standard Configuration Table
Every rough opening is the same six-part assembly. What changes by size is the count, not the anatomy — which is why inspectors read an RO in seconds. Use this table as the per-side config when you frame an exterior wall, and as the procurement list when ordering studs: a 38-inch door RO consumes 7 to 9 framing members before sheathing.
| Component | Count (per opening) | Stock | Fastening | Job |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| King stud (full-height) | 1 per side (2 total); 2 per side on RO > 6 ft or seismic zones | Matches wall stud: 2×4 or 2×6, pre-cut wall height | 16d nails 16" O.C. face-nail to jack; 3" structural screws at head/band | Carries sheathing edge, drywall backing, and gives the jack full-height backup |
| Jack / trimmer stud | 1 per side for RO ≤ 4 ft; 2 per side (stacked or flats) for RO 4–8 ft | 2×4 or 2×6 cut to underside-of-header height | 16d nails 12" O.C. through king; header end-nails 16d × 3 | Transfers header load directly to the bottom plate |
| Cripple studs above header | 1 per 16" of RO width (layout-matched to wall O.C.) | 2×4 or 2×6; longest at the jack, graded down to top plate | Toe-nail 8d × 2 top and bottom into header and top plate | Supports the top plate span over the opening so it does not sag |
| Cripple studs below sill (windows) | 1 per 16" of RO width | 2×4 or 2×6 between rough sill and bottom plate | Toe-nail 8d into sill and plate; end-nail into king layout | Carries window weight into the floor system and aligns sheathing |
| Rough sill (windows) | 1 flat member per side (2× double sill on wide RO) | 2×4 or 2×6 laid flat, full RO width + 3" for jack bearing | 16d end-nails through jacks; 10d face-nail to cripples | Distributes window unit weight across the cripple bay |
| Header (see header table) | Spans RO width + 6" (3" bearing per side on jacks) | 2× doubled 2×6 → 2×12, or LVL above 6 ft RO | 16d × 3 end-nail to jacks; 10d face-nail lamination 16" O.C. | Roof/floor load bridge — the single most inspected RO component |
Run the Full Wall Framing Calculator
This page solves the openings. The homepage framing calculator handles the whole wall — stud counts, plates, and lumber cost for every bay around your windows and doors.
Rough Opening FAQ — Clearances, Headers & Fixes
How much bigger should a rough opening be than the window or door?▼
For windows, frame the rough opening 1/2 inch wider and 1/2 inch taller than the unit call size as a default (1/4 inch per side plus top clearance), then confirm the manufacturer sheet — vinyl nailing-fin units often want 1 inch total width clearance. For prehung exterior doors, the rough opening calculator adds 2 inches to the slab width (3/4 inch jamb plus 1/4 inch shim per side) and 2.5 inches to the slab height (head jamb plus threshold bed). A 36×80 exterior door therefore gets a 38 × 82.5 inch rough opening. Oversizing beyond the spec by more than 1/4 inch per side forces shim stacks wider than 3/8 inch, which is where sagging casings and latched-door misalignment begin.
What is the rough opening for a 36×80 exterior door?▼
Frame 38 inches wide by 82.5 inches high for a standard 36×80 prehung exterior door. The 2 inches of added width covers the 3/4 inch jamb on each face plus 1/4 inch of shim per side; the 2.5 inches of added height covers the 3/4 inch head jamb, 1/4 inch of shim, and roughly 1.5 inches of threshold assembly sitting on the subfloor. If your door ships with a 1-1/4 inch inswing threshold or you are setting the door on a raised porch pan, add that depth to the 82.5 inches rather than burying the slab in the opening.
What header size do I need for a 38 inch rough opening?▼
A 38 inch rough opening in a single-story exterior 2×4 wall bearing roof load uses a doubled 2×6 header (2-ply 2×6, 5.5 inches deep) with one jack stud per side. In a 2×6 exterior wall the same span uses 2× 2×6 with plywood filler to reach the 5.5 inch cavity depth. The header table above steps up to 2× 2×8 at 48 inches, 2× 2×10 at 66 inches, and 2× 2×12 at 78 inches. Two conditions force an upgrade to engineered LVL: the opening carries a second story or a roof valley load, or the clear span exceeds 8 feet — at that point header depth is a beam calculation, not a rule of thumb.
What is the difference between a king stud and a jack stud?▼
The king stud runs the full wall height from bottom plate to top plate and anchors the sheathing and drywall edge; the jack (trimmer) stud is cut short, fits inside the kings, and carries the header ends down to the bottom plate. Every rough opening needs at least one jack per side bearing the header, and one king per side tying the assembly into the wall run. On openings wider than 6 feet, or in high-wind and seismic zones, the calculator and most inspection checklists double the jacks — two per side — so the header bearing area never exceeds the allowable compression across a single 2× end grain.
Do all windows need cripple studs above the header?▼
Yes — cripples above the header are what stop the top plate from sagging into the opening between the kings. Frame one cripple for every 16 inches (or your wall's O.C. layout) of rough opening width, starting with the longest cripple flush to the jack line and stepping down to the top plate. Windows also need cripples below the rough sill to carry the unit's weight into the subfloor, typically one per 16 inches of sill span. A rough opening framed without cripples may pass a visual check but fails a level-string inspection, because within one heating season the plate line dips visibly at the opening.
Can a rough opening be too big, and how do I fix it?▼
Yes, and it is expensive to ignore. Extra width is fixable: add a second jack stud and move the king outward, or rip-filler a 2× strip to the jamb face and re-nail — but extra height is the dangerous one, because the header bearing height cannot be recovered without re-framing. If the rough opening is more than 1/2 inch over spec in height, the correct fix is to add a sill plate under the jacks (for doors) or lower the rough sill (for windows) rather than shimming the unit up on plywood pads. This rough opening calculator keeps you out of that situation by printing the RO before you cut the first stud.
Does the rough opening change for a 9 or 10 foot wall?▼
The rough opening width and height math does not change — clearances are driven by the unit, not the wall. What changes is everything vertical around it: pre-cut studs are no longer usable (92-5/8 inch pre-cuts are an 8-foot-wall standard, while 9-foot walls use 104-5/8 inch pre-cuts), cripple lengths grow, and headers in load-bearing tall walls may need an extra ply because the tributary wall weight above the opening increases. For a 9 foot wall with a 36×60 window, frame the same 37 × 60.5 inch RO but verify the header against a 9-foot tributary height before reusing the single-story table above.
Putting It Together
A rough opening is a 6-component assembly sized by two clearance rules: windows take +1/2 inch per side and +1/2 inch at the head, prehung exterior doors take +2 inches of width and +2.5 inches of height. Headers step from doubled 2×6 at 3 feet to doubled 2×12 at 6.5 feet, with jacks doubling past 4 feet of width. Keep the diagonal check under 1/8 inch and the header call load-matched, and the unit install becomes a 30-minute shim exercise instead of a re-frame.
For the vehicle-door version of this math, use the garage door rough opening calculator; for pricing the whole wall these openings live in, see the framing cost calculator. All figures are 2026 US framing references for planning — the unit manufacturer's RO spec always overrides a chart.
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